Hanako Hanako's extremely cozy conditions inspire the usual jokes about hunchbacked bugs. A genial mood more than offsets the lack of elbow room. "It's a good place to come on your own," says Mika. Most of her customers are Japanese women in their early twenties. "Customers can bring their own CDs and listen to them. There's also a video." Hanako's cover charge, which includes tasty homemade snacks, will set you back 1,000 yen. Drinks run from 900 yen. 2-15-8 Shinjuku, 8 pm-3 am, closed Mon. (3352-4862)

Hard Rock Cafe American food and portions in this authentic dinner. 5-4-20 Roppongi (3408-7018)
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Harlem New hip-hop spot in Shibuya love hotel area. 2F, Dr. Jeekahns, 2-4 Maruyamacho (3461-8806)

Hayashi
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Hinazushi All-you-can-eat (4,300 yen) sushi restaurant. All-you-can-drink for 1,200 yen. 11:30am-2:30pm & 5-11pm; Sat., Sun. & hol., noon-11pm. Beach Restaurant Row, O-daiba Kaihin Koen Sta. (Yurikamome Line from Shinbashi Sta) 1-3-5 Daiba, Minato-ku (5531-0017) 13 other branches, such as Mejiro (3205-7552) and Shibuya (3462-1003)

Hobgoblin Tokyo Brewery Pub & Restaurant. Newly opened pub in Akasaka, two minutes from the station. We stock the largest selection of draught beer in Tokyo. Lunch and dinner served everyday. British roast served Sundays from 1pm. (3585-3681)
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Hokkaien A truly Chinese emphasis on cooking (first-rate) over decor (getting scruffier by the minute) They excel at just about everything they do, which is a lot: The menu feels like a medium-sized telephone book. Start your explorations with the Peking-style specialties, or just choose a course (from 5,000 yen) 11:30am-2pm & 5-10:30pm, daily. 2-12-1 Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku (3407-8507)

House of Chile Hideaway like a hut on a tropical Island in the middle of Roppongi. Hot & spicy food such as Thai and Mexican Cajun cooking. 1F Nakazima Bldg., 3-8-11 Roppongi (3402-0372)
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Home A natural food restaurant using only organic foodstuffs and locally caught fish. Next-door is Hiroba, a buffet restaurant. 11am-2pm & 5-9pm. Crayon House, B2, 3-8-15 Kita Aoyama, Minato-ku (3406-6409)

Hong Phat A simple Vietnamese place, much like the dozen or so others that have sprung up around town in the past couple years. Two notable features at this one: it's just around the corner from Takadanobaba Station, and they have the excellent export version of Vietnam's 333 Beer (ask for ba-ba-ba) Recommended: beef noodles, chicken salad and Vietnamese-style okonomiyaki and curry. 11:30am-2pm & 5-11pm; Sun. & hol., noon-10pm. Closed Mon. Suki Bldg., 2F, 4-9-10 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku (3366-1371)

Hug Right next door to Hanako, Hug is managed by fast-talking Chako. She has been running Hug for 2 years, and while she won't necessarily greet you with a HUG, Chako will most assuredly be welcoming. Hug has 2 floors and features a bar and karaoke facilities (including tambourines for the particularly enthusiastic) and plays Yusen when the karaoke machine is taking a rest. People tend to come alone, and while clientele are mainly 20-ish, Chako says that Hug attracts those in their 30s and 40s too. She says that things can get wild during the week as well as on weekends. A maximum of 15 or 16 can sit at the bar, and after that, you'll have to tough it out. Hug's cover charge is 1,700 yen and drinks start from 800 yen. Shinjuku 2-15-8, 9 pm-6 am (5379-5085)

Huong Viet The entryway to this hole-in-the-wall hideaway of Vietnamese cooking is dingy if not dilapidated, but inside it's bright, friendly and full of street-level authenticity. Try a banh xeo pancake (the Vietnamese o-konomiyaki), exotic gyozas of minced pork and tree fungus and wash it down with a bottle of Ba-ba-ba beer. Most fare is aromatically tasty, but you'll find a few spicy characters among the clientele as well. 5-11pm; Sun. from noon; closed Mon. 5-3-3 Higashi Nakano, Nakano-ku. (3364-6304)

Isshin Genuine, innovative and amazing Japanese cuisine in a most tasteful setting. An experience you will never forget. This is the “real” Japan. 6pm – 2am. B1, Arai Bldg., 5-19-15 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. (3442-0224)
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Irish House
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Jembatan Merah Indonesian food and delicacies served in a tropical setting. A quiet Baliesque oasis awaits the intrepit Tokyoite to choose from among 100+ dishes and an equally impressive drink menu. Open: 11am-11pm. Nichiyukin Akasaka Bldg. B1, 3-20-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku (3588-0794)
Three other Jembatan Merahs are in Shinjuku, Shibuya and Ikebukuro.
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Kakinokizaka
Asia, a resort once tenderly loved by Europeans. Here we realize the air full with comfort. EUROPEAN DINING & CAFE BAR KAKINOKIZAKA. Kakishoku Bldg. 3-24-15 Takaban, Meguro-ku (5721-1511)
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Keets Karaoke bar with more than 3,000 English songs. 2,000 yen, w/ food and drink tickets. 6 pm-5 am; Sun. & hol. until midnight. 4F, 2-4-9 Roppongi (3584-3262)

Kinsmen Established gay bar where boys and girls, gay and gay-friendly hang out. 2F, behind BYGS Bldg. (3354-4949)

Kinswomyn Tara's bar is a must for any women-only visit to Nichome. Five years old (Kinswomyn's 5th birthday bash was just celebrated on September 19th) and still going strong, Kinswomyn has no cover charge and offers dance music on weekends. Tara says that the clientele varies according to the time of week, with the younger crowd being attracted to the dancing and the older crowd preferring the quieter weekday evenings. Kinswomyn is a good place to meet someone, says Tara. She admits to mustering up a little English for her frequent foreign customers. Kinswomyn's relaxing atmosphere is no doubt conducive to good conversation and plain old fun. Drinks start at 700 yen. 2-15-10 Shinjuku, 8 pm-4 am, closed Tues. (3354-8720)
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Kiss Well-lit espresso bar with sometimes-surly service on Aoyama-dori. 1 & 2F; 3 & 4F: club and DJ bar. 2,000 yen w/ 2 drinks. 3-11-13 Minami Aoyama (3401-8165)

Konpei
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Kyle Good's Find
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Lamp Post Quiet little gay bar. Ideal to start the night off in Ni-chome. No English spoken, but everyone’s welcome. Draft beer starts at ¥500. Open everyday until 3am, Sat/Sun happy hour from 4pm to 7pm. 2-12-15-201 Shinjuku (3354-0436)
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La Chic Cafe restaurant style Italian dining that's not all atmosphere. Tasty antipasti, hot starters such as calamari sauteed with capers or tomato and olive oil alla luciana, and rich, generous main courses--plump scampini or creamy fettucini with smoked salmon--crafted by chef Komiya. Second floor has outdoor terrace too. 11:30am-11pm; closed Sun. & Hol. KSS Bldg., 2F, 1-21-8 Nishi Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku (3779-0411)

Le Bretagne Crepes may be pretty easy to come by in Tokyo, but the authentic buckwheat gallettes with cheese, ham, eggs, onions, various herbs, and/or fresh cream, butter and sugar, and fruit sorbet? Well, there's this place and that's it. The Northern French native who runs the place has also brought the espresso based beverage Calva over to complement the crepes. 11:30am-10pm. 4-2 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku (3235-3001)

Lexington Queen Hollywood meets Roppongi at the Lex. Friend to the stars Bill Hersey oversees the beautiful people at this fashion show slash club. 8 pm-5 am. 4,000 yen (male), 3,000 yen (female). 3-13-14 Roppongi (3401-1661)

Liquid Room Top touring rock, pop, punk and techno acts, plus one-off club specials. Shinjuku HUMAX Pavilion, 7F, 1-20-1 Kabukicho (3200-6831)

Lilla Dalarna A Scandinavian restaurant in Roppongi.Don’t miss the chance to feast yourself on our Christmas buffet, for only ¥2,000 you’ll get what you need for a Scandinavian Christmas table. Served during lunch time (12-3pm) from 16th to 24th December. Basic meals are also available. (3478-4690)
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Live Bar Knob Philippine musicans and singers, international cocktails, delicious Philippine and Mexican food at reasonable prices. 3F BIP Bldg., 6-1-6 Roppongi (3404-4001)
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Lombardi's A traditional pizzeria from New York, where it was established in 1905. Specializes in Neapolitan pizza. MULBERRY, B1, 1-17-5 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku (5457-7753)

Loop As comfy as your best friend's apartment. Wed. produced by Decca of New World Mansion (No-Hip Hop). After hours on Sun. 2,500 yen w/ 2 drinks. B1, 2-1-13 Shibuya (3797-9933)

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Mad Mulligans
Lunch meals all for 1000 yen. All night Happy Hour every Saturday. Kyuei Bldg. 2F, 3-18-21 Toranomon, Minato-ku (3578-8980).
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Mannebiches The Gaelic renaissance is under way and Mannebiches is part of this new ave. An herb garden outside, a bread oven in the back and an equilibrium of quality, ambiance and price that's close to ideal, even though it's tucked away well off the main drag in Nezu. 1-16-8 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku. (3824-0484)

Mareichan Hasn't quite made up its mind as to whether it's a proper restaurant, a fast-food joint or a bottle-keep snack bar. Good, inexpensive food in any event, from noodle and rice dishes (we like the nasi lemak) to full-bore Malaysian curries. 3-22-6 Nishi Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku (5391-7638)

Mariks Bar Every last Saturday, soul music and dance. Drink and food from Y500. 2F 5-37-4 Kanamachi, Katsushika-ku (3608-9090)
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Mars Bar At the ripe old age of 13, only Mars Bar comes close to Sunny's track record as the oldest lesbian bar around. Interestingly, a bento is included in the rather pricey cover charge of 3,000 yen, so you won't go hungry in manager Yoko's presence. Mars Bar's customers can listen to rap or hip hop or try their luck at karaoke. Yoko says both singles and couples flock to Mars Bar for its friendly atmosphere. Shinjuku 2-15-13 3F, Mon-Thu 8 pm-3 am, Fri-Sun 8 pm-5 am, no closing day (3354-7923)

Mikonos The Tokyo/Yokohama population cluster's most famous Greek restaurant and deservedly so. Cheerful and bright. Reasonable rates for delicious dishes of lamb chop, herb-laden chicken souvlaki, salads teeming with black olives and feta cheese and finger foods with garlic mashed potato dip. There are even half dishes. But be prepared to wait your turn-reservations only accepted for parties of seven or more. 6-11:30pm. Closed Tue., some Wed. 1-104 Honmokucho, Yokohama-shi (045-623-9465)

Milk Punk, rock and alternative acts from around the globe join the cream of Tokyo's rock bands. (Thur. & Fri.) with DJs and separate lounge areas. 3,000 yen w/ 2 drinks. Mon.: The Rock '70s-'90s. Tue.: Rock & Pops '60s-'70s. 1st Wed.: Junkadelic. Thur.: Alternaste. Fri.: Kaz & K.K. Roob 6 Bldg., B1 & B2, 1-13-3 Ebisu Nishi (5458-2826)

Mission Stunning interior. On the outskirts of Roppongi, but worth the walk. From 8 pm. 3,000 yen (male); 2,500 yen (female). Jule A Bldg., B1, 1-10-10 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku (3583-6332)

Mix Crowded, smoky, friendly, major plus: always someone dancing. Soul, R & B and reggae, with occasional hip-hop and acid jazz. Early to mid-week dance haven. 3-6-19 Kita Aoyama (3797-1313)
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Monsoon Café The Nishi Azabu people-watching cafe/restaurant (5467-5222) has opened a new restaurant in Daikanyama. Various Asian foods from satay to Vietnamese raw spring rolls. 11:30-5am, daily. 15-4 Hachiyamacho, Shibuya-ku (5489-3789)

Moti A Tokyo institution. Serving unpretentious Indian fare for as long as we can remember. Roppongi (3479-1939), Akasaka-mitsuke (3582-3620), Akasaka branch (3584-6640) Moti Darbar Roppongi (5410-6871)

Muse The longest bar in Tokyo with live music, DJs, and packed weekends. (3401-6969)

Myun (My Dung)It's a time machine: a slightly dank, Asian-baroque Shinjuku basement-cafe, perfectly preserved from the '60s. No, it's a space transporter: an instant trip to Saigon, with good, cheap food and a largely Vietnamese clientele. 1-3-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku (5379-5240)

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Nao's Wine restaurant in Ginza, that serves Italian and French food and more than 50 kinds of wine, beer, and cocktails. If you don’t care about the formal way of drinking wine, but you know how to enjoy it, this is your place! Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm & 6pm-11:30pm, Sat 5:30pm-10:30pm, Sun closed. 7-7-19 Ginza, Chuo-ku (5537-3335)
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Navajo Californian-style Pacific Rim cuisine. Fresh seafood, seasonal vegetables and fruits. Sunny, open scenery with friendly English-speaking staff. Roppongi Bldg., Annex, 1F, 4-11-5 Roppongi, Minato-ku (3470-1717)

Noose Cozy night spot in Nishi Azabu. Mainly acid jazz. 500 yen. Tue.: DJ Mike McKenna & guests play hip-hop, jungle. B2, 1-4-7 Nishi Azabu (3478-4284)

Nuts Pounding, hard trance hole on Roppongi dori across the street from WAVE. 2-3,000 yen w/ 1 drink. (3402-4070)

Open Reggae club with laid back atmosphere opened by the staff from the legendary, now defunct 69. Roots reggae from the 60s-90s. 1,000 yen w/ 1 drink Up Shinjuku dori, turn right at the Don Don gyudon shop before Gyoenmae station and it's downstairs of the right.(3226-8855)

Orange Tree One narrow counter and two small tables is all that's available to service the eat-in customers with tandoori chicken, chicken murghi , and a very very vegetable curry. Yet this is still the only place where you find an Indian hot-dog (spicy shish kebab sausage wrapped in nan). Worth the wait or drop by and get a bunch of cheap Indian food to go. 12-2pm and 6-11pm. 2-12-11 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku (5721-9342)

Organ Bar A groovy hangout in Shibuya. All genres from hip-hop to free soul. From 9 pm. 1,000 yen w/ 1 drink (Fri. & Sat., 2,000 yen). Last Fri.: Free Soul Underground. Kuretake Bldg., 3F, 4-9 Udagawacho (5489-5460)

OTO Techno/house club in Shinjuku. Midnight-5 am (opens as an event space SIDE/B 7 pm-midnight). Mon.: All mix. Wed.: Hip hop. Thur.: Reggae. Fri.: House. Sat.: Jazz groove. 2,000 yen w/ 2 drinks (Fri. & Sat., 2,500 yen). After hours (Sun., 6 am-noon): 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun.: house; 2nd & 4th Sun.: techno. 1,000 yen. 1-17-5-27 Kabukicho (5273-8264)

OZ Café A slightly Japanized version of a Sydney cafe in the residential back streets of Nishi Azabu. Recommended is their breezy outdoor patio that stays open practically until the summer sun comes up. 5:30pm-4am. 1-8-13 Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku (3470-7734)

Pastis A big, bright room overlooking the Aoyama-dori/Kotto-dori intersection. Like any decent European cafe, they'll give you almost anything you want, whenever you want it, from a cup of coffee to an 800 yen lunch plate to a five-course meal. Recommended: any of the meals-in-a-pot-bouillabaisse, or pot-au-feu. 5-50-5 Jingu-mae, Shibuya-ku (3499-2565)

Piga Piga
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Pigeon Skankin' little reggae bar which has been crankin out the tunes for over twelve years. On same street as American army barracks, 1-4-49 Nishi Azabu (3403-2962)