All great cities have their monuments. What’s New York without the Statue of Liberty? Who would dare to separate Paris from its Eiffel tower or San Francisco from its Golden Gate? Tokyo is no exception to the rule. But if you’re thinking that our city’s landmark is that orange and white monstrosity known as Tokyo Tower, then think again. The real Tokyo monument is in the shadow of the hulking erector set, and it’s got the colorful spires of Moscow’s Red Square on its roof. We’re talking about Volga, a city institution that serves borsch straight from the Russian beltway.
Open the door to the mysterious building and you are drawn into a dark atmosphere. The walls are lined with curios and autographed photos of the celebrities and diplomats who have chanced to dine at the decades-old establishment. Walking down the stairs into the plush basement dining room, the strains of a Jazz band can be heard. And as you settle down in the red velvet chair a waiter silently coasts to the table to hand you a menu like some secret cold war document.
There is a wide variety of traditional Russian cuisine, but you can’t miss the Piroshki. A deep-fried (but not greasy) bread crust envelopes savory ground beef. It’s the perfect accompaniment to the hearty borsch — a beef and potato stew with just a dab of sour cream. Then try the Pelmeni, meat raviolis in a Siberian-style soup broth. They’re slightly reminiscent of Chinese shumai dumplings, but filled with flavorful beef.
Volga serves nouvelle-cuisine dishes taking advantage of Japanese delicacy. They also offer delectable seafood fare like the fresh fish carpaccio with spicy nuts sauce, garlic chips and chives. Think of it as sashimi — Russian style.
If you’re in the mood for elegant dining at a reasonable price right in the heart of Tokyo, you should pay a visit to Volga. It’s one monument you’ll always associate with this city.
Volga
3-5-14 Shibakoen
Minato-ku
Tel: 3433-1766 Fax: 3433-1767
5-minute walk from Kamiya-cho station on the Hibiya Line
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